Getting Started

When I came to New Zealand, my plan was to backpack from
south to north.


After getting myself organized in Invercargill I went for
a 3-day hike on Stewart Island. There's a very compact
village of 400 people and everything else is wild except
for a few scattered hiking trails or tracks.


I went on a three day 'tramp' called the Rakiura Track.
At first it follows the coast with intermittent beaches.
On the second day it cuts through the island to the other
shore and then returns to the starting point on the third
day.


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Hump Track

This was my first true mountain backpacking trip in New
Zealand. It's privately run and not one of the famous
Great Walks. I did it on the recommendation of my good
friend, Gavin Pond and I was glad I did. The trip runs
out of Tuatapere along the south coast of South Island


The first day started with a walk along the beach. When
it turned inland it was flat at first, then became very
steep and strenuous. When I got to the top of the ridge
I couldn't see a thing because it was in the clouds.


The second day however had great visibility. Below was
Te Waewae bay and the ocean 3000 feet below. To the
northwest were the mountains of Fjordland National Park.
On the ridgetop were striking rock formations and small
pools amid the wet mossy shrub.


From the ridge we descended back to sea level and a hut
set up in the abandoned lumbering town of Port Craig.
The last leg of that day's hike was an old rail line
complete with wooden bridges or viaducts.


The third day was a beach walk back to the 'carpark'
partially retracing our route from the first day
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Kepler Track

Now THIS is what I call a Great Walk!! Rakiura was a
nice warm-up. The Hump Track was cool but the Kepler
was spectacular. It's even withing walking distance
(for a hiker) of Te Anau.


After an hour's walk along the shores of Lake Te Anau
the track turned up into the mountains and was soon
above treeline with amazing views of the lake and
mountains.


Just when I was settling into the hut a helicopter
swooped in and a happy couple had their wedding right
then and there on the front porch of the hut.
Champagne for everyone, friend and stranger alike!


The next day was almost all above treeline,
zig-zagging over and around the steep sided mountains.


Even the last day was neat. Not just the usual boring
walk back out to where you started.

Fjordland

Just a pleasant valley walk with no serious uphills
to get me from Te Anau up to Milford on foot.
Should have been easy right? WRONG. This was both a
pathfinding challenge and much more rugged terrain.
Most of the time the route was marked with poles and
while it did its best to avoid the wet valley floor,
it was slow going at times.


And just to add to the challenge my stove decided to
give up the ghost. Hello peanut butter.
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Routeburn Track


It just keeps getting better and better. New Zealanders
say the Routeburn is every bit as good as the Milford
and I can see why. The first day was foggy but the second
was clear with views of the snow-capped mountains on the
opposite side of the Hollyford Valley leading down to
Martins Bay and the Tasman Sea


Mt Conical was my lunch spot with its 360' views. After making
myself at home in the wrong hut I walked another hour to the
Routeburn Flats Hut. It seemed a fitting tribute to my father
that on his birthday I had a wonderful day in the mountains...
and didn't spend a red cent


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Rees-Dart Track

I know, I know. I've said it at least twice already
but...this was the best tramp yet!!! In addition
to the Rees & Dart Valleys there was the high pass that
connects them and a day trip to get up close and personal
with the Dart Glacier en route to the Cascade Saddle.
The trip runs out of Glenorchy close to many of the spots
where Lord of the Rings was filmed.


The first part of the tramp follows the Rees Valley through
a long flat section, past an abandoned hut until it ascends
to a higher valley ending in a bowl surrounded by mountains.


Then it climbs over the Rees Saddle and follows Snowy Creek
down to the Dart Valley. There are viewpoints above the
saddle on either side with some great views


After a steep descent to the Dart Hut, I took a side trip the
next day to another high pass called Cascade Saddle. It felt
so much lighter to just be carrying a daypack. I made it up
to the Saddle in good time. Approaching the saddle, there are
great views of the Dart Glacier, a frozen river of ice tumbling
into the valley.


One doesn't cross the saddle since it's a sheer drop of about
3000' into the Matukituki Valley. The trail ascends further
and crosses the ridge at another point.


As the trail leaves by way of the Dart Valley the trail alter-
nates between grassy fields and traverses over steep bluffs.
The reverie is interrupted downstream by the Jetboat rides that
some roaring up the river although I have to admit, it looked
like fun


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Wilkins-Young Circuit

Maybe it's an embarassment of riches or maybe it's just
from doing the same thing for a month. And then there's
the rain and the unavoidable conclusion that hiking in
the rain stinks.


The trip started in Makarora with a ride on the jet-boat.
Makarora isn't much of a place. The Dept of Conservation,
a motel/cabins/cafe place and a small airstrip all within
100 years of each other and nothing else for miles.


Welcome to the sad tale of my hike in the Wilkins and
Young Valleys over Gillespie Pass. The weather was
promising enough at the beginning. Wilkins Valley is
quite beautiful. Of course after Mavora Valley, the Green-
stone Valley, the Routeburn Valley, the Rees Valley and the
Dart Valley it's hard to get excited.


And why not get all your disasters out of the way at once.
Bad weather and a mild flu-bug. It wasn't serious but I
did feel a bit weak going over Gillespie Pass (I can hear
Dizzy Gillespie jokes now).

So now it's time for a few indoor days until this change of
seasons rain does its thing. Time to get to know the town
of Franz Joseph.

Christchurch

Transalpine Railway

Admit it. You haven't hiked a lot and you're saying to
yourself 'I could never do that'. Well here's something
for everybody...a train ride. Instead of just a break
from riding the bus it turned out to be a real treat.


At first the valley was very much like what I'd been seeing
while hiking, green and wet.


But when I got to the other side of the mountains (through a
long dark tunnel) everything was different including the weather


The final leg was along the Canterbury Plain.
Christchurch, here we come


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Christchurch

OK. So it's not the coolest name out there. Try putting it
to music. Insert Christchurch into the Batman theme and you'll
start to feel it.

Cathedral Square is the heart of Christchurch and most of the
highlights are within a ten minute walk from there


You can climb up the bell tower for a good view of the Square
and its surroundings


There's a special trolley that makes a loop around downtown


The trolley goes through some pedestrian-only alleys that have
been converted to shopping plazas.


Even the prostitution business is tastefully worked into the
landscape


This is the Canterbury College campus, now used for art galleries
and performance space. At night, they turn out the lights and you
can bring a flashlight for the 'haunted house' tour.


The Botanic Gardens have acres and acres of walkways and gardens.


This is a Maori robe worn by two members of the same family when
they graduated from the police adademy. Maori weaving is even
part of the artwork on the walls of the Cathedral.


Da-da da-da da......CHRISTCHURCH!!!
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New Zealand Oddities

Most of us associate wilderness with freedom. On Stewart
Island I guess they have other ideas.


Look closely. The ramp leads seamlessly into the painting.
(Talk about getting into your art)


Need something to eat?


...or maybe something to drink?


One way or another, you'll find a way to take care of it.


Gee honey, that second trail sounds like FUN!!


Make friends and become closer travelling together.


This internet cafe got its seats from an old bus


This internet cafe IS an old bus.


Always something fun to see in Z.

Nelson Region

Roberts Ridge & Lake Angelus

Lake Rotoiti, where the hike starts (and ends)


Hiking up to the ridge with a view of the lake


Along Robert Ridge.


Dropping down to Lake Angelus tucked in among the mountains


The next morning I watched the sun work its way down the
cliffs on the other side of the lake.


Angelus Peak


Alas time to go back down


Morning fog (looks more like a alien mind control ray)


The walk out was actually very relaxing and fun.
Had a swim in the lake after I was sufficiently warm.
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Nelson & Dun Mountain

Couldn't go on without mentioning the town of Nelson,
my home base for the last couple of hikes.
I got there by train on the Pacific Coast Route


This is the Anglican Cathedral built in honor of Lord Nelson
after his defeat of Napolean


Like Christchurch there are some lovely gardens


On Saturdays and Sundays there's a market featuring local
products and crafts.


The quality of some of the art was quite impressive


There's some great hiking within walking distance.


And a chance to reward yourself afterwards


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Heaphy Track

First a confession. I don't like beachwalks. It's not the
personal-ad thing, walking on sand just slows me down.
That being said the Heaphy Track is just above the beach
and was my favorite part of the track.


The Nikau palms along the way gave it a very tropical feel.
The only downside is that you have to keep moving to avoid the
sand flies


The trail turns inland. The McKay Hut has a great view back
down to where the Heaphy River flows into the Tasman Sea site
of the Heaphy Hut.


After that the trail got less and less interesting. The moss
covered rocks were one of the highlights of Gouland Downs.



Gouland Downs is a big plain high in the hills.



You know you've been spoiled when a nice morning view seems
boring compared to some of the truly spectacular views you've
seen on other hikes.